Spain from an English perspective

Ernest Hemingway said the ideal spot in Spain to witness a bullfight for the first time was in Ronda. He was guaranteed the best seat in the house on his many visits to the Plaza del Toros. As was another fan of bullfighting, film director Orson Welles. Had they been at the peak of their careers today they would no doubt have wanted to buy an apartment with a permanent view of the oldest bullring in Spain. Clever men though they were, they would have had their work cut out. Such a property is as rare as a safe driver on the streets of this ever popular tourist destination. Ronda is blessed with views. The mountains and the gorge are the most photographed. Then there is the bullring, a building that oozes character. It is easy to see why Hemingway and Welles spent so much time there. It has the feel of a spiritual retreat and out of the high season it can, perhaps surprisingly, be the quietest spot in Ronda: a haven of peace and tranquillity despite the amount of blood that has been spilled there over the years. Ronda has always considered itself to be the home of bullfighting. In 1775, Pedro Romero was the first matador to display his skills there. Today, its 5000 seats are more likely to be occupied by extras on a film set than by spectators at an actual bullfight. Such events have been banned in some areas of Spain. But other towns and cities are defying politically correct thinking and building new bullrings. Today, the greatest danger to tourists and house hunters alike comes not from a stray bull but from the humble motor car. Plans to only allow into Ronda cars owned by residents cannot come a moment too soon. Here is a place that is crying out for further pedestrianisation.

Considering how low the bullring is, it is surprising that so few buildings overlook it. Offices above bank headquarters and local restaurants have a bird’s eye view of most of the ring. Some apartments above the Hotel Royal also look out on to the historic sight. However, one coming on the housing market is almost as rare as an actual bullfight in Ronda today. It is not so much the bullring that potential residents wish to see from their windows but the adjacent Alameda del Tajo (Promenade of the Gorge).

This is a wonderfully designed tree lined avenue where locals and tourists alike take a stroll to witness the panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. Without question, this is one of the most consistently enjoyable views in Spain. The Tajo was completed in 1806 courtesy of monies raised from fines imposed on those who foul mouthed in public. Today the serene surroundings are likely to leave you speechless.

In order to overlook the bullring you would have to live on the road that dissects the city, the Virgen de la Paz. It is a very central location for all that the city has to offer, but is by no means the prettiest area of Ronda.

There is no shortage of property for sale all within ten minute’s walk of the bullring. Some are being sold at low prices not seen in much of modern day Spain. For example, A&B are selling a home in the Padre Jesus area of Ronda for just 114,000 euros. Living here means a steep walk up into the centre of the city but you are away from the tourist coaches and have many splendid countryside walks on your doorstep. It has three bedrooms, a courtyard, central heating and air conditioning. It has splendid countryside walks on its doorstep. The historic fountain of eight spouts is across the road from the house - very handy should your water supply be cut off! British people who have bought in Ronda will tell you that the city is not blessed with a great deal of modern day culture. When friends are due to arrive from the UK they are asked to bring with them the latest books and music. Concerts and theatre performances are few and far between in Ronda and residents travel as far as Seville to satisfy their lust for culture.

It is clear that there is a price to pay should you wish to have a permanent and memorable view in Ronda. There are many vantage points from which to savour this city and the surrounding countryside. The best view of the bullring though is from within its Neo-classical walls.

A good idea would be to buy one of the cheaper homes in the less touristy areas of Ronda and then enjoy the scenic walk to the Plaza del Toros. Choose your seat, pull out your copy of Death in the Afternoon and understand why Hemingway was so in love with this historical arena.